Day 1: Les Houches to Le Pontet
Our adventure began in Les Houches, setting off with fresh legs and high spirits. The trail led us through classic alpine scenery, easing us into the rhythm of the trek. The first night we stayed at Le Pontet in a dorm, we managed to wash and dry our clothes from the day.
Day 2: Le Pontet to Les Mottets
The terrain grew more dramatic as we climbed higher. Les Mottets, nestled in a stunning valley beneath a glacier was a stunning place to stay. There was no mobile phone signal, but there was something nice about that. We were fortunate to have a private room so we could wash our clothes and relax before dinner.
Day 3: Les Mottets to Rifugio Randonneur
Crossing the border into Italy brought a change in landscape and atmosphere. The descent was steep and scenic, and Rifugio Randonneur was a charming place to spend the night, it was in the Courmayer ski resort which I’d skied in before, funny to be there in the summer. When we arrived we sat on the balcony at the bar and met a couple who were teaching in Katmandu and were ultra runners, they had actually got an entry into the UTMB based on their race results, obviously quite good runners! They were running the route in 3 days.
Day 4: Rifugio Randonneur to Rifugio Bertone
We descended through the ski resort and into the pretty town of Courmayer. After coffee, cake, and a bit of shopping (including a UTMB buff!), we faced a steep climb out of town. Possibly the hardest ascent so far, but we made excellent time. Rifugio Bertone had a quirky check-in system and plenty of rules, but the views were spectacular and dinner was good. We ended the day watching the sunset and watching the Tour in our (private) room.
Day 5: Bertone to Hotel de la Fenêtre
We woke to a terrifying thunderstorm and torrential rain. After waiting it out, we set off along the lower path to Bonatti, with stunning glacier views. Another storm hit—this time with hail—and it was one of the worst we’ve ever walked through. Mudslides, soaked feet, and lightning made for a dramatic day. The Irish Opera Singers got the bus along the valley and we met up again just before the climb to the col. The weather was improving and as we started to climb up the pass the storm cleared and we breathed a sigh of relief! We crossed into Switzerland and again the views changed, it reminded us a lot of Scotland. We arrived at Hotel de la Fenêtre, cold and tired but grateful for a private room and a warm welcome. The opera singers we’d met earlier were also staying there, and we had a lovely evening together.
Day 6: Hotel de la Fenêtre to Relais d’Arpette
The rain held off, and we enjoyed a peaceful walk through La Fouly and down wooded paths. After lunch we followed the river, before climbing to Champex Lac, which felt a bit too touristy for our taste. A short walk through the woods brought us to Relais d’Arpette, where we had a beautiful room with a balcony and mountain views. Dinner was one of the best—vegetable curry and fruit—shared with a German physicist and an Australian doing the Haute Route.
Day 7: Relais d’Arpette to Le Peuty
We took the Bovine Route, skipping the Col de la Fenêtre variation. The trail climbed gently, then steeply, to a refuge with the best cake on the trail. Cold and tired, we didn’t linger. The descent to Trient was scenic, and Le Peuty turned out to be a delightful surprise. Quirky, welcoming, and far nicer than expected. We enjoyed hot showers, sunshine, and beers, followed by a walk around the village. Dinner in the yurt was the best of the trip—four delicious courses shared with Americans celebrating their anniversary on the Haute Route.
Day 8: Le Peuty to Vallorcine
After breakfast in the yurt, we took the variation toward the Trient Glacier—and we’re so glad we did. It was one of our favourite days: spectacular views, challenging terrain, and peaceful solitude. We sat in a deserted valley for half an hour just admiring the glacier. After crossing into France at Col de Balme, the descent to Vallorcine was tough. Gîte Mermoud was a characterful place—wooden, creaky, and full of charm. We walked to the cable car station for beers and returned feeling a little tipsy! Dinner was shared with a multilingual German family and an American architect who sent us his walnut cake recipe.
Day 9: Vallorcine to Chamonix
The final day! Rain greeted us at the start, but it soon cleared. The climb to Flégère was immense and felt harder than expected—possibly due to a lighter dinner the night before. We followed the UTMB route back to Chamonix and stumbled upon a mountain café like a mirage, where we devoured crepes and coffee. Arriving in Chamonix felt surreal after nine days in the mountains. We showered, changed into fresh clothes, ate sweets from our suitcase, and celebrated with tartiflette, beer, and more crepes.
Bertie's World 
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